Sunday, December 23, 2012

Fussen et al. (not Ettal)

Today was a day of physical ups and downs. We hiked up long and short entrances to homes of kings, stopping along the way to avoid tourists and horses and slippery spots in the snow. These royal approaches through the woods and along streams rushing and gurgling with the runoff from melting snow were challenging in some instances, but worth the effort. I often found myself lagging behind - sometimes out of breath, but often just trying to catch a certain image.



DH, MC and LD on the way up the mountain.

Getting closer to Castle Neuschwanstein


Neuschwanstein



We took this path before in the winter (1997), but it is now verboten.


Some take the horses up and/or down.



Looking down the side of the mountain mid-climb.


Small waterfall of melting snow run-off.


Marienbrucke Bridge - overlooks Neuschwanstein Castle

Gorge and waterfall below Marienbrucke - a deer was walking in the snow along the water.


Enlargement of  previous photo showing deer in the snow at the upper right hand side.

Architectural detail - Neuschwanstein



Detail of stained glass - Neuschwanstein
Neuschwanstein seen from Hohenschwangau Castle
Moss covered ground at the base of birches (?) near Hohenschwangau



Hohenschwangau Castle



Waterway near Linderhof


Icy paths made it clear why Linderhof is the "summer palace" and why most parts were closed.



Another waterway near Linderhof.  I wish I could have captured the sounds of the rushing water.

We saw cats and dogs in and out of the snow and even spied a deer far below alongside the stream at the foot of one castle mount. We passed waterways with ducks and swans (fitting as two of the palaces were built by and were the very temporary homes of the Swan King). 


Cat exits woods as we walk towards the castle.
Ducks on the lake at Linderhof
Swans at Linderhoff
Ludwig's swans

Crows cried out in the woods. And these were woods unlike any we see at home. They are old and deep with trees and plants we do not know. They are thick with brambles and carpeted with moss green from the cold damp weather.



Trees rooted in the sky



Woods

More woods



Our journeys inside the buildings were up and down winding staircases and through muraled, gilded, and curtained rooms with other wanderers from Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Romania, and Bavaria as well as people whose origin we did not learn. Some asked questions. Others merely observed as did we.

We coffeed in rooms unfinished, mere skeletons of what might have been with only rough sketches on the walls (still waiting after more than 125 year for completion).

We did not walk across the Marienbrucke this trip. Two of the approaches to the bridge were blocked. The third would have unreasonably delayed our planned travels.

We did visit another painted church. We had been there before, some fifteen years ago. We stopped on a whim and were amazed to see the interior of this small white-washed building. We stopped there on purpose this day to discover many changes. There are car parks, a coffee shop, and souvenir shops. We remember a building basically set apart, by itself in its simplicity.

They use smokeless candles now to protect the paintings and holy objects. I lit two.



Wieskirche altar

Choir loft

Carvings on the front pew.

On either side of the altar were prayer rooms. No photos could be taken, but their contents remain engraved in my heart and mind. Along the iron scroll-work separating the room from the main altar were hung rosaries, framed notes, drawings, photographs, and tiny shrines - all offerings. Most were thank yous (danke) though some were pleas (bitte) and blank pads and pens were left before kneelers for visitors/supplicants to use.

I marveled at the faith displayed, like the faith of those who built the churches, carved the statues and pillars and painted the religious scenes and those who now lovingly repair and protect these treasures.

This evening we walked through our temporary home town to see the Christmas market's last evening. We almost missed it as the merchants were packing up their wares and closing up their stalls. Tomorrow is Christmas eve. Other business awaits.




Additional things:


Mother sings in Russian to her child outside of the chappel at Linderhoff. I took the photo to remember that sweet moment.

Notes: All of these articles contain the history and better photos of the actual places visited: Neuschwanstein Castle, Hohenschwangau Castle, Linderhof Palace and the Wieskirche.

1) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neuschwanstein
2) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hohenschwangau_Castle
3) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wies_Church
4) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linderhof_Palace

Further notes: Neuschwanstein Castle is the subject of a family joke. As mentioned we made this trip 15 years ago. We arrived on Christmas Eve 1997 to find the castle was purportedly closed. We hiked the trail anyway. And therein begins a story we do not often tell and which will not be told here. (On this trip we visited the castles on December 23. No fools we.)

But I thought there should be some joke explained. The "jest" in the title? There is a monastery at Ettal near the town where we stayed for most of our trip. DH remembers his parents taking the tour with him and that they would not allow him to try the beverage made there. We have driven through Ettal more than a dozen times, but have never stopped. We didn't stop this time. But we did go to Fussen to visit the kings (or at least their palaces).








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