Sunday, July 10, 2016

Day 7 Fethard, the walled town

                                                 In Fethard Town, in Fethard town,
                                                 The sun goes up and the sun goes down,
                                                 The auld Clashawley flows around,
                                                 I wish I was in Fethard Town!
                                                       ~ Fethard Town, John Spillane*


Our last travel day - do we prepare for the going home or have one last adventure?

The answer was easy and we pointed the car toward Fethard Town. It is the best existing example of an Irish walled town. Most "walled" towns or walled cities in Ireland have a small section of wall to show travelers. In Fethard a good deal of the wall remains and it has been stabilized.  Two "castles" or towers also mark this village. One is square and the other round and they adjoin the Church of Ireland property. Of course, you really should plan to visit during the week as the key to part of the wall is at the chemist's and the shop is closed on Sunday and on bank holidays (we were simply out of time).

In fact, nothing is open in Fethard on Sunday morning (nothing) except the churches (of course) and the Stop and Shop.** God bless Bernadette McManus who we found working in the Stop and Shop on this rainy and windy Sunday. She welcomed us in, talked about her history - living in Africa for years and returning to raise the children at home (the family home is in the same building with the shop, next door and above) - and shared a map of the town (we had one, but hers was better).

We found the old Augustinian Monastery next to the new church. The churchyard is full of beautifully carved Celtic cross headstones.

The passage into the abbey church yard.
The metalwork on the gate was lovely.
Part of the old abbey
Carved cross headstones.
These were much more ornate than the others we had seen, harking back to the carved high crosses (none of which we saw on the trip).

Even the sides were deorated.



Here's one with what we see as a dollar sign, but clearly means something else.

We found large sections of the wall, including the north gate.




I suppose it always had an opening for carts and one for people.


I brake (or break) for wildflowers.
We found the oldest lane (bordered by what appeared to be old walls as well. A tiny thing - an alley, we did not explore as we were going to be late for Mass).


What may have been part of "the oldest lane" was now someone's drive. DH stopped me at the gate, "You can't go in there!"

We found the Church of Ireland.


Back at the abbey for church (the church photos are in "Don't Sit In The Front"***) and we saw this dove perched on top of a cross. We entered the churchyard and he sat still, almost a part of the monument. Then he flew around the ruins, showing off himself. Peace.

We sae the dove when we looked through the fence.
He just sat there looking around.
I kept trying for a better photo.
And then he flew...
...and turned...
...and landed.
McManus' Stop and Shop

We had heard there was a Sheela na gig**** on the old abbey wall (not that we could find) and one near the Waterford Bridge (we must have looked in the wrong place). So we will have to be satisfied with finding her in John Spillane's song:

                                         As I went down through Fethard Town,
                                         In the County Tipperary, I met the Sile na Gig
                                         and she dancing a jig, She clinging to the wall and
                                         she laughing at them all, Sayin' they'll never
                                         understand me. Ah the mystery of history, the
                                         hassle in the castle, And the monk in the bunk,
                                         the skill with the quill, And it feathered in Fethard.*

Fethard really deserves another look - on a weekday. In fact, this would be a nice place to stay for a while. There are a couple of pubs and lovely people (evidence - Mrs. McManus!) and things to explore including a river walk along the Clashawley.

[We travel in Ireland for the scenic views, the castles, the gardens, the high crosses, the history, the standing stones, the ruined abbeys/churches <d--ned Cromwell - spit, spit>, the fairy glens, the literature, BUT MOST OF ALL for the people. I love to hear the Irish tell a joke, or say Mass, sing a song, or tell a story. I love the people most of all. This is why we go to Ireland. This is why we will continue to visit there as long as we can.]


NOTES:

*We didn't know that John Spillane had written a song about Fethard. When we got home the music we had ordered (after a diligent search) was waiting for us - and I am wearing out Fethard Town - words and music by John Spillane, Universal Music Ireland is the label (I am sure there is a proper way to so give credit and I attempt to do so here).
**Original building circa 1500.
***http://walkinthepark-padimus.blogspot.com/2016/07/dont-sit-in-front.html
**** https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheela_na_gig I still have never seen one in person - just photos.

For more on Fethard (pronounced "feathered") -  http://www.discoverireland.ie/Activities-Adventure/fethard-historic-town-walk/85440

More photos to come. I have to find them...hmm...where could they be???

Ah...found them:

Part of OLD Old Town Fethard.
More old walls in Fethard.
I suspect here I was walking somewhere I wasn't supposed to be.

Here we may be at the "widows house."

The auld Clashawley flows around. It is a pretty walk, but the river wasn't doing much. In spite of the misty rain, we must have been here during the dry time.
We saw this crazy tree as we were on the river walk. It looks like a passage to enchantment.
I hate to tell you it stops right there, but it does. I think they should buy up a section of property right there and make some kind of path...just a thought. [Yeah. You knew this was the photo I was looking for.]
Old gravestones at the Abbey
More old gravestones. These are the kind that were meant to lay flat. I suspect these were stacked for a good reason...and maybe to hide one of the Sheelas.



















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