Maybe it's bred in the bone,
but the sound of pipes is a little bit of heaven to some of us.
but the sound of pipes is a little bit of heaven to some of us.
~ Nancy O'Keefe
Music is everywhere in Ireland. It's played on the streets and spills out of the pubs. One cannot escape it, but why would you want to?
We treated ourselves and were treated to wonderful music all along our way. We made lovely connections with artists just starting and some with more experience. We carried home a suitcase full of music - so we can relive a bit of the experience - so we can close our eyes and be back in the pub or walking along the street enjoying the fiddle or pipes, concertina or flute, accordion or tin whistle.
I can hear the music now.
CLONMEL JUNCTION FESTIVAL:
Martin Hayes and David Power |
Whenever we were asked what we had done in Clonmel we started by saying, "We saw Martin Hayes in concert." Then together we and whomever we were speaking with at the time would exclaim"He's brilliant!" And he is. He plays the fiddle with such passion. Even from the back of the bar I could watch his facial expression - a raising of the eyebrows or tossing of the head, perhaps a cue to his partner that evening. It was no surprise to discover he was six time winner of the All Ireland Fiddle competition.
David Power would close his eyes and lean back as his fingers danced on the Uilleann pipes. It was as if he was being transported to another world and taking us with him.
Together they were everything traditional Irish music should be and more. It was a bit of magic.
The group gathered this evening at Bakers Bar was one of those great audiences which did not hold back. There was tapping of feet, slapping of knees and nodding of heads. I was fascinated by one fellow who tapped time on his heart. There's more than a little symbolism in that movement. We whooped and cheered as one. But it was over all too soon.
~~~
David Broaderick and Loah performed in Mitchelstown Cave. We had been to a cave concert last year and, while we loved the music, we did not think the acoustics were anything special. We also froze despite wearing multiple layers of clothing. So this time we sat in the middle of the crowd.* We were warmer and the acoustics much better.
There was an interesting sort of innocence in Broaderick's delivery - as if he were a bit surprised by each piece. |
Broaderick performed almost experimental music. He has a brilliant sense of harmony (singing with himself by use of some kind of equipment I know nothing of, but which he used brilliantly to record himself in multiple parts). He played multiple instruments as well. I have to say that it was a mixed bag for me. I loved three of the songs and was confused by the rest. I attempted a little poll of the folks sitting around me when he finished his set. They seemed satisfied - especially a couple of well/stylishly dressed young men sitting behind us. They merely commented (twice) that they were more familiar with his performance on the piano. I responded that it would be difficult to get a piano down in the cave (even as members of Loah's band set up keyboards in preparation for her performance). I love Broderick's website and I want to keep listening. He may be one of those quirky folks that grown on you.
Loah seemed sincerely excited to be performing before this crowd and in this venue. |
Loah is a soulful young woman of Irish/Sierra Leonean heritage and a musician who is on the rise. Her performance was flawless. We could tell that, while she has "paid her dues," she still gets a kick from being on stage - almost an "I cannot believe I am here!" excitement perhaps enhanced by having just recorded her first CD. She was good - reminiscent of Sade. But her music is not our style.
Certainly the Irish are quite proud of her and her work as evidenced by people lined up to visit with her at the "after concert" champagne reception and at the CD table.**
The last musician we heard at the festival was a young busker from Dublin. He was playing guitar in the pedestrian plaza as the day was winding down. We stopped to listen and talk. I somehow missed getting his name and a photo. I would have to do better.
THE TOUR - IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER.
Saturday found us preparing to join an Inishfree Tour*** with Buddy Mondlock as host. We soon discovered that some of the folks on the tour were not just fans of Buddy's, but friends from high school. I kept thinking I should draw up a family tree to keep it all straight in my head.
Yes, once again we had taken a leap of faith, listened to a YouTube video, and gotten on the bus. Once again we had to confess we knew no one (even the driver and guide were different from our 2016 trip). We shared our belief that there is no such thing as a bad time Ireland (and we were right).
Buddy Mondlock accompanied by Mike Lindauer |
It is one thing to be "on" when onstage, but to be "on" for nine days with 20 some-odd people takes some doing. Buddy took it all in stride. [And who wouldn't love a guy with a book of the birds of Ireland in his back pocket. Bird people are good people.]
~~~
Mike Lindauer accompanied by Buddy Mondlock |
~~~
Claire Roche and the concert harp |
Claire Roche was the first musician we were to hear on the formal music tour. Harpist and singer, Claire was a delight. She explained the differences in the two harps she brought and played (one a concert instrument and the other an Irish harp) for well over an hour. She shared the story of her training and each piece she would be playing. Then, each time she began she said humbly, "and I hope you like it."
Like it we did. And we loved her.*******
~~~
David Doocey and Pat Coyne played an almost private concert in the hotel bar. It was a tight squeeze for our group, but I saw others lured in by the music who found spots at the bar or in a corner. [How is it I have no photo of these fellas? I think I was sitting in the wrong spot.]
Having just heard Martin Hayes one might worry about any fiddler to follow, but there was no need. David Doocey was brilliant. DH's eye "grew wide with delight."******** Pat Coyne on guitar played beautifully, but it was his voice that I remember. He has a beautiful voice. I don't have the words I'm afraid. Was it "lyrical"? Was it the "timbre" that brought something magical to the words? Whatever, These two young men were a joy to hear!
~~~
Don with a couple of guys from the tour. |
Don Stiffe gave a sensitive and personal performance. It was impossible not to be affected by both story and song. By the end of the evening we knew some of his secrets and felt he knew ours. Tears? Yes, there were tears.
~~~
Three scathingly brilliant artists....Peter Molloy (flute), John Kilkenny (fiddle), Declan Askin (guitar). |
At Pat Molloy's Pub (yeah, THAT Pat Molloy) we were treated with a rollicking good time. Peter Molloy, John Kilkenny, and Declan Askin played like madmen...with that kind of genius that folks who know how to show you a good time, while having one themselves. Askin kept up a running commentary of jokes (He walks up to a young woman at a dance, "Want to dance?" "You askin'?" "This is your lucky day!") and a blessing ("May the road rise before you, so for the rest of your life you'll be walking uphill!).
~~~
Askin also mentioned being on stage the next day and sure enough, we saw him again when we went to see PATRICK********* (the musical). The multimedia production tells the story of St. Patrick using video, traditional music, step dancing, and narration by Askin. The story and music are powerful, but it was the step dancing (and the almost uncontrolled passion with which the young dancers performed) that had the audience enthralled.
~~~
Luka Bloom - I missed this year's Luka Bloom concert, but heard it was quite good despite some logistical issues with the venue. His music is heartfelt and he represents the new Irish music tradition.
AND NOW FOR THE BUSKERS (street performers)
Clifden, County Galway:
Eoin cleverly set up in front of the grocery store in Clifden. Good foot-traffic there. |
Galway City, County Galway
A stylish look on the streets of Galway. [There was no "messing with" the image. This is how the streets intersect in the old part of the city.] |
Enthusiastic traditional music from this quartet. |
Clearly a family group and quite good. |
The older sister on flute keeps an eye out as the youngest gives me a sly look. This reminds me of another family. |
It's amazing to see such young performers. |
This gentleman provided the soundtrack for our visit to the cliffs. I thanked him for the music and stepped back for a photo. He spoke to the dog in Irish. |
He told the pup to turn around for the photo. Oh my heart. |
* Most of the time the Irish are the epitome of polite. But each time we have traveled to the cave we have found folks "jumping line" and attempting to use their "connections" for a better spot. Well, we knew of this behavior from last year and, while there was no pushing or thumping, we did resist latecomers from "jumping the queue."
**Yes, I did listen to Youtube videos before I purchased the tickets.
***https://www.inishfreetours.com/
****https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YFgcU-Aduk
*****This song is not recorded, but should be.
******Party piece - I learned about the "party piece" 40 years ago. It is a little something you do to entertain the group - sing a song, tell a joke, recite a poem, or the like. I learned two songs back then - The Wild Rover and Four Green Fields.
*******She mentioned playing at Yeats' Tower and we loved her even more.
******** From The Wild Rover, a folk song made popular by the Dubliners and others.
*********https://www.destinationwestport.com/event/patrick-9/
For more about the musicians:
Martin Hayes - http://www.martinhayes.com/
David Power - http://www.davidpowerup.com/
Peter Broaderick - http://www.peterbroderick.net/
Loah - https://www.facebook.com/LoahMusic/
Buddy Mondlock - http://www.buddymondlock.com/
Mike Lindauer - https://www.facebook.com/mike.lindauer [He told me, "I'm only the bass player." Well, he's a lot more than that.
Claire Roche - http://www.clairerochemusic.com/p/music.html
David Doocey - http://www.daviddoocey.com/
Pat Coyne - https://www.hollywoodbowl.com/philpedia/patrick-coyne
Don Stiffe - http://www.donstiffe.com/
Peter Molloy - Difficult time finding a site. Here is a YouTube vidio. He's on Facebook too.
John Kilkenny - http://www.dartryceiliband.com/meet_the_band/ [He has his own traditional music program out of Castlebar]
Declan Asken - https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=576379901
Luka Bloom - https://www.facebook.com/lukabloom/
We are the music-makers,
And we are the dreamers of dreams,
Wandering by lone sea-breakers,
And sitting by desolate streams;
World-losers and world-forsakers,
On whom the pale moon gleams;
Yet we are the movers and shakers
Of the world for ever, it seems,
~ Arthur O'Shaughnessy, from Ode
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