We Had No Choice - We Followed the Music

          From the first note I knew it was different from anything I had ever heard....

          It began simply, but with an arresting phrase, so simple, but eloquent as a

          human voice. It spoke, beckoning gently as it unwound, rising and tensing.

          It spiraled upward, the tension growing with each repeat of the phrasing, and

          yet somehow it grew more abandoned, wilder with each note. His eyes

          remained closed as his fingers flew over the strings, spilling forth surely 

          more notes than were possible from a single violin. For one mad moment I 

          actually thought there were more of them, an entire orchestra of violins 

          spilling out of this one instrument. I had never heard anything like it--it was 

          poetry and seduction and light and shadow and every other contradiction 

          I could think of. It seemed impossible to breathe while listening to that 

          music, and yet all I was doing was breathing, quite heavily. The music itself 

          had become as palpable a presence in that room as another person would 

          have been--and its presence was something out of myth.

                                                          ― Deanna Raybourn, Silent in the Grave

St. Canice's Cathedral (Church of Ireland) - location of the first concert. Great acoustics. Rough seating. Take a pillow.

Replace "violin" in the above quote with "fiddle" or "guitar," "pipes" or "concertina," "harp" or "banjo" and I would need to share nothing more.

It might just be better to leave it at this because I struggle for the words to describe our experience. Maybe there are no words - only the music.  So feel free to stop reading here and look at the few photos, if you wish.

The interior of St. Canice's

We first heard Martin Hayes in a pub in Clonmel in 2017. That year Martin performed at the Junction Festival with a wonderful piper, David Power. We lucked into the performance having no clue what magic we were to hear. Then in October 2018 we made a special trip to New York City for  a concert at the Highline Ballroom to hear the Martin Hayes Quartet perform because now we knew (and had the opportunity). Each venue was perfect in its own way, intimate. We shared our tables and got to know some lovely people as we enjoyed the music. [Links to those stories are below.*]

When DH and I checked the rest of the tour dates and locations at the end of that October concert, we were hoping to queue for the quartet** a few more times. But we discovered there was no date that would work for us. We were busy for the date of every gig. [Look - we are retired. We should not be that busy. And we were surprised to find that we were.]

A few weeks ago, we were hot and tired and in need of a break somewhere peaceful and cool. We debated options and the stars aligned.*** We found ourselves with tickets to a performance of the Martin Hayes Quartet and a concert a few days later featuring Martin Hayes and Dennis Cahill (and friends) - both at the Kilkenny Arts Festival.

Even before we could finalize our reservations for the trip, we discovered that Martin directs the Masters of Tradition, an annual music festival in Bantry a few days after Kilkenny. So we booked that as well and headed to Ireland for two weeks of art, theater, literature, and music (mostly music).

So, how was it? Stunning and soul-satisfying in so many ways. Every trip to Ireland is a pilgrimage for us -  a spiritual experience - whether we go for music, for the woods, for the castles and ruins, for the glens....

We always go for the people - welcoming, wise, hilarious and kind.

This time it was the music that called.

A view of Bantry Bay as we walked to a concert at Bantry House

I am impressed (sorry, wrong word -- humbled? awed?) by the generosity of time, energy,  and spirit observed with this group of musicians. The first example involved an encounter with a busker near the Kilkenny Dunnes Store.

Michael Toomey was playing the banjo in the street as DH and I hustled by to get to some middle-of-the-day festival event. We would normally have stopped (Michael's quite a performer and he's good) and we talked about going back later. When we did get back to him, Michael was talking to a man in a black felt beret-like hat. I immediately recognized the man in the hat was Dennis Cahill. He and Michael were deep in conversation.

DH headed away, but I waited and tried not to eavesdrop as Michael and Dennis exchanged questions and thoughts about preforming. It was lovely to see a professional share insights and encouragement with a less experienced artist. As the conversation was ending I motioned with my phone and asked if I could take a photo (those posted below). Then we three talked a bit longer about politics and more before Dennis headed off - but only after he offered and arranged tickets for Michael to come to the concert the following day.

Michael Toomey and Dennis Cahill - still conversing.

I'm using both photos because I like both.

Then it began to rain. So Michael and I moved his gear under the portico at Dunnes and he and I talked for another few minutes, exchanging email addresses and stories. He was still a little stunned by the exchange with Cahill as he shared that he is from Tipperary and has traveled a good deal. Then he told me about the "Imposter."

Apparently there is a man who looks much like Cahill (and who was attending the festival - I've seen him since hearing the story). When Cahill walked over to Michael to drop some coins in the hat, Michael thought, "Is this Cahill or the Imposter?" He realized that this was likely his one chance. If he didn't ask, he would never know. So he called out and asked.

Michael also admitted he was a bit disconcerted that on the day he met the guitar virtuoso he did not have his guitar along.

[I never got to hear Toomey perform again as the rain continued and I had to leave. I do recommend that you pay attention, friends. We may well hear more from Michael Toomey.]

As the days went by, at each performance, I had this feeling that Martin Hayes had gathered like-minded artists who would share their experience and talents and were interested in both honoring and stretching the parameters of traditional music. There was unique collaboration during the performances as Hayes included artists like Sandy Silva, percussive dance innovator, cello virtuoso Kate Ellis, and author Timothy O'Grady reading excerpts from his book, I Could Read the Sky. There might be a scheduled "line-up" that would blend and grow as artists would call different musicians to the stage. We were all willing participants, happy to be present,  to be challenged, and to experience something new and wonderful.

During these two festivals Martin Hayes communicated with us in his quiet and humble way -- introducing new artists, encouraging the (perhaps) underappreciated, and promoting the work of others, especially the next generation. His introductions were personal, educational, and often humorous -- and always in a tone that communicated "try this, you will like it." And we did.

And there were other moments outside of the performances. For years I had heard about Steve Cooney, renowned guitarist who performed at both festivals (and has a new CD coming out soon where he has taken ancient harp music and translated it for the guitar). We ran into him after one performance as we were ordering a late supper at the local pizza parlor. He asked if we would be attending the late concert the following night. [We were unsure if we could manage both the 7:30 and 10:30 gigs at the time.] Cooney shared, "it's going to be special." We trusted and attended. Our trust was well-placed. It was, indeed, special.

Steve Cooney's guitars

At our last concert in Bantry we passed Martin on our way out. We thanked him for the music and he thanked us for being there. What a farewell! What an experience!

People have asked us why we'd come to see the same artist perform multiple times.  The answer is simple -- each performance, each concert is a unique offering -- a rare gift of love, art, and community.

So, if you have the chance to hear Martin Hayes, Dennis Cahill, Steve Cooney, or any of the artists mentioned here, do so. If you feel the call to Ireland consider an arts and/or a music festival, especially one like Masters of Tradition. You will not be sorry.

How do I end this part of the narrative? I end with thanks to the artists. They blessed us.

St. Brendan's Church (Church of Ireland) in Bantry. A much simpler place than St. Canice's, but with excellent acoustics and a choir loft. We were in the front row of the loft which provided a wonderful view.

THE LIST

Here is a bit of a list of those musicians/performers/artists/magic makers we had the good fortune to hear, some thoughts that remain after jet lag, and addresses to more information (not the only information "out there," but some I found interesting). There are likely some artists who performed among this group that we did not hear. I cannot comment on them. In a vague sort of order:

I. KILKENNY: 

MARTIN HAYES - fiddle - the reason for the pilgrimage. http://www.martinhayes.com/

DENNIS CAHILL - guitar - the man himself, not the imposter. http://www.denniscahill.com/

LIZ KNOWLES - viola d'amore and fiddle - https://www.lizknowles.com/

DOUG WIESELMAN - bass clarinet - https://www.dougwieselman.com/press/

MARTIN HAYES QUARTET includes the above four artists - the quartet is amazing. I stand by my words from last October - "It was a brilliant evening. They played for an hour and a half with only a few stops for tuning and explanation. As we listened I was reminded of last summer when I watched an older man keeping time to the music by tapping his heart. This was indeed heart-tapping soul-feeding music."

- http://www.martinhayes.com/martin-hayes-quartet

STEVE COONEY - guitar - I've been told he always performs barefooted. I've spoken about our "trust" above. We anticipate his new album. Hurry up with that footnote, Steve. https://irishtunecomposers.weebly.com/steve-cooney.html

CORMAC BEGLEY - concertina(s) - He owns and plays two of only six bass concertinas in existence. His new album approximates a concertina. Clever idea - for this superb musician. http://www.cormacbegley.com/

SILE DENVIR - voice and harp - She is a master of sean-nós singing, is remarkable solo, and smooth in collaboration. https://tradconnect.com/events/s-le-denvir also https://www.dcu.ie/researchsupport/research-profile?PERSON_ID=1888326  I love sean-nós singing. It is different and this article explains it a bit. - https://www.folkmusic.net/htmfiles/inart378.htm

SANDY SILVA - percussive dance - You need to see to understand. https://sandysilvadance.com/

KATE ELLIS - cello - I have never heard someone draw this vocabulary from a cello - modern and fascinating. http://kateelliscello.com/

IARLA O'LIONAIRD - voice - He is also another extraordinary sean-nós singer and more. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iarla_%C3%93_Lion%C3%A1ird

Sile Denvir's harp.

II. BANTRY (In addition to some/many of those listed above we had the good fortune to hear):

TIMOTHY O'GRADY - spoken word - Author of I Could Read the Sky - (I'm reading the book now.) https://www.irishtimes.com/culture/books/timothy-o-grady-on-creating-i-could-read-the-sky-a-book-for-bealtaine-1.2216668

FLORIAN BLANCKE - harp - A French-born harpist, one of her CDs just arrived at the house [A lovely attribute of DH is that he surprises me with music when we get home and the adventure continues as the music arrives.] https://www.florianeblancke.com/

DERMOT BYRNE - accordion - They say you either love or hate the accordion.  We love it - and Byrne. https://www.allmusic.com/artist/dermot-byrne-mn0000248328/biography

LIAM BYRNE - viola da gamba - Have you ever heard the viola da gamba? Wow!  https://www.liambyrne.net/

YVONNE CASEY - fiddle - https://www.facebook.com/yvonnecaseymusic/ A fiddle teacher as well! Brava!

PADRAIC KEANE - uilleann pipes - His rendition (and narration) of a selection called the "Fox Chase" (I think that's the name) which begins with a song learned in most Irish primary schools, continues with the sound of the horns of the hunt, barking dogs, and horses galloping, and ends as hunts do, brought down the house. https://www.tunesinthechurch.com/artists-profiles/11-artists-profiles-tunes-in-the-church/108-tunes-in-the-church-padraic-keane.html

PARAIC MACDONNCHADHA - banjo - Another artist with a new CD (which we brought home). I do hope MacDonnchadha speaks on the recording as he is hilarious - his humor disarming and compelling, something you notice immediately on his Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/paraicbanjo/

LIAM O'CONNOR - fiddle - Another artist with a wonderful sense of humor. He brought more than one fiddle and set one on the stage. I fretted until he picked it up. Each was tuned in a different manner. I know nothing of tuning, but I know an artist when I hear one. https://journalofmusic.com/criticism/heart-fiddle-playing

MOHAMMAD SYFKHAN - bouzouki - A talented musician forced to flee from his homeland. I was fortunate to see him the following day and express my gratitude for his music. https://www.rte.ie/news/ireland/2018/1223/1018857-syria-leitrim/

LISA O'NEILL - voice - Perhaps the biggest surprise for me - my one thought, "she is to today's folk music what Janis Joplin was in her time." O'Neill is different and compelling.  http://lisaoneill.ie/home/  and  https://www.folkradio.co.uk/2019/08/an-interview-with-lisa-oneill/

Cormac Begley's concertinas

NOTES:

*https://walkinthepark-padimus.blogspot.com/2017/07/all-about-music-and-those-who-make-it.html
https://walkinthepark-padimus.blogspot.com/2018/10/traveling-again-we-were-not-ready-but.html

**We have joked about "stalking" Martin Hayes and that we should make T-shirts of some kind. "We Queue for the Quartet" is our best idea so far. [I would also advise one not joke with passport control about stalking anyone]

***This year our efforts for a long trip had been thwarted a few times. I have twice booked rooms only to have to cancel for one thing or another. By the end of July the temperatures were hitting 100 degrees. August would be worse. We were tired and cranky.

So on a particularly frustrating day, DH threw his hands up and said he was going upstairs for a nap. I turned on the computer and up popped a reminder of our trip to NYC. "Hmmm," I thought. "I wonder what Martin Hayes is up to this summer." I check the website and found that he would be in Kilkenny for the Arts Festival. I found that flights and rooms and tickets were still available. After his nap DH came downstairs to one question, "Do you want to go see Martin Hayes in Kilkenny?" There could be only one answer.

A couple of famous folks in the audience having a chat.

FINAL NOTES AND SHORT STORIES WITH NO PLACE ELSE TO RESIDE: 

-- The audiences were amazing and added to our experience. We always had great folks around us. One lovely woman knew everyone in the venue. "That's the bishop. There's the member of the European Parliament. Oh, and see that man sitting there? That's Christy Moore. He always comes. Sometimes Jeremy Irons attends. He brings his dog..."

-- Christy Moore was pointed out to us at each concert in Bantry. He's another celebrated musician I've heard about, but never seen perform. And yes, Jeremy Irons did attend at least one concert. And he did bring his dog. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christy_Moore;  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeremy_Irons]

-- I sat with a woman who asked if it was our first trip to Ireland. I explained that I had come a number of times - the first visit in 1977 when I was 21. "I traveled by train and bus," I said. "And you hitchhiked. We all did back then," she responded. "Don't tell my mother!" I replied.

-- At another concert DH met a man who invited us to come "walk the farm" the next day. And we did. [More on that later.]

-- Another woman has insisted we return next year for Fleadh Cheoil 2020 in Mullingar. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fleadh_Cheoil]  I suppose it is good to have options.

A family of Mute Swans on the River Nore near Kilkenny Castle. The swan is associated with love, music, and poetry.

FINAL FINAL THOUGHTS (and disclaimer):


The thoughts and comments here are entirely my own. The musicians were to-a-person brilliant. A lack of comment on any speaks to my lost notes (I jotted down thoughts during performances, but my notes are in the detritus of unpacking and sorting of laundry, books, gifts, CDs, and receipts) and the almost overwhelmingly rich experience that I am, even now coming to grips with. We really had no idea of the enormity of what we would experience. Editing will likely proceed (sometimes for years as a memory comes back) as the notes are recovered and my sleep returns to normal.  

This is our travel journal of sorts, it is also an effort to keep and share the experience, to publicize people and places, to note adventures "out there," and to encourage people to live full out. You don't have to climb to the top of the round tower, but if I can, you can.