OK, so Glencar is in County Leitrim, sue me.
Knocknarea
It was time for the tennis shoes. We purchased a lunch in Collooney and journeyed off to hike to the top of Knocknarea.* It is a mountain with a large cairn atop. As we have toured the past few days we would look up and not only see Ben Bulben, but also see this mountain and cairn. The cairn is reputed to be that of Queen Maeve,** but then we found another reputed grave of Maeve in Leitrim. The day dawned misty and the mist stayed with us. The wind on top of the mountain was brisk and we were glad for our jackets and scarves. The view was not what it could have been, but it was still an amazing experience. Later we learned we should have taken a stone to add to the cairn. DH and YC said, "OK, let's go back." I told them they were welcome to go, but I would wait at the car.
|
At first the walk seems like nothing. DH and YC take off at a brisk rate. |
|
But I was looking at the flowers. Here were the only bluebells we saw (they are Harebells in Ireland). |
|
The path got a good deal rougher. |
|
The heather was lovely. |
|
And magically we were levitated to the top of the mountain (where the sign warned us NOT to climb on the cairn). Actually, the climb became too much for me to climb and pay attention to the view and take pictures. So I gave up and climbed. |
|
The top of the mountain is broad and relatively flat. |
|
A path runs to the west where the next mountain ends in a cliff. |
|
I suspect (and may have read) that a number of smaller cairns were in ruins in the area of Maeve's. |
|
Because there is no other reason for these large boulders, it is likely each group is a former megalithic tomb. |
|
Yet another scattering of boulders. |
|
This guy was clinging to the grass in the 10+ mile per hour gusts. |
|
YC and DH start back down and you can see from the distant ground just how high this mountain is. |
|
Another view from the top - one of the only poor visibility days, but we had no choice. |
|
Another view down. |
|
It is not quite as tough to go down as to come up, but it was a little tricky in places. |
|
We saw people coming up on horseback. |
|
They rode off down another path. Now THAT would have been the way to climb this mountain. |
|
I catch up with the rest of my group. Actually, they regularly waited for me. |
|
There were few trees on the mountainside. |
|
These two trees seemed to mark an open spot in the wall. |
|
Ah, and what is the purpose of this? Well, I know a nettle when I see one. Or at least I think I do. No matter where I travel, I WILL run into a nettle. And I did in the woods later that day. |
|
One of the gates |
|
Blackberry blooms |
|
And blackberry fruit. |
A word here about blackberries - All through our visit we found blackberry brambles along the roads and paths. It was killing me (a jam-maker) to find these berries somewhat wasted (of course the wildlife would take advantage of the fruit, but the birds do share). I thought I would find blackberry jam or preserves somewhere to bring home, but I never did. So I had to be satisfied with eating some of the berries as we hiked. And they were wonderful.
|
This guy calmly watched us (and only a few more hikers) walk up and down the path. |
|
We saw a good deal of wool caught up on the fencing and on the rocks, but saw no sheep on this hike. |
|
Daisies naturalized along the way. |
|
There was one spot where the harebells were blooming in a mass, but they were moving in the wind so the photo blurred. |
|
Another odd bloom |
At this point we took a trip down a narrow road - looking for landmarks to a treasure. We did not see them and so headed down to Carrowmore.
Carrowmore
Now protected by the Irish government, Carrowmore is the oldest and largest group of megalithic tombs in Ireland. It is within sight of the cairn on Knocknarae and somehow aligned with it. We took the map at the visitors' center and inspected the graves. We also noted many spots where the boulders from the tombs had been used to build walls - for the farms and along the roadway. Most of the tombs in the area are protected, but some are still found on private land.
|
Remains of a large curb stones |
|
I am going to guess and saw this is Knocknarea in the distance. |
|
Another ruined tomb |
|
I wish I had a way to capture the birdsong. We were almost always accompanied by their music. |
|
This tomb was reconstructed and shown in an open manner for educational purposes. |
|
These thing are huge. I am not sure how to explain the size...some 3 or 4 feet across. |
|
Rock wall with suspiciously large stones. |
|
This is one of the best examples. |
|
More boulders in an old wall. |
|
The best example from a distance. |
|
See the mountain in the background? |
|
I had to take a photo of these. There were bunches through these fields of stone. |
|
One view of this grave. |
|
View from the other side. |
|
Rock wall. |
|
Another rock wall. |
|
Wall bordering the roadway |
|
And the other side of this wall. |
Glencar Waterfall
We drove following signs to the Glencar Waterfall.**** We had a few missteps, but finally found the right carpark along the lake. We should have known it would be the one with ICE CREAM.
On the way to the waterfall we noticed a sign to Maeve's tomb, a mere 5+ miles away. We knew we were done for the day. No one in our party took a stone to either grave. That will have to wait for the next trip.
|
It's pretty, even if it is the wrong place. |
|
See. It was worth the stop. |
|
So pretty. |
|
Shrine. |
|
Cattails in the lake. |
|
More. |
|
Where is a boat when you need one? |
|
For a bit I thought we were walking up here to the waterfall. I was not amused. |
|
And then we found the right spot. |
|
Yeah, missed this "selfie." DH and I read about the sights. |
|
First things first. We need some ice cream. I think these were called "whippies." |
|
Creek spilling down from the waterfall. |
|
It's fast. |
|
and pretty. |
|
But it was not deep on our visit - in spite of what the sign warned. |
|
More of the stream. |
|
And a little more. |
|
First view of the waterfall. |
|
There is is. |
|
YC explores some rock steps to nowhere. |
|
If we had the time, I think we would take more trails... |
|
The woods around the waterfall were lovely. |
|
Down these stairs... |
|
Up these... |
OK. Don't get me wrong. This was an easy walk up and down. I just don't want to give anyone the idea that it was even ground. I found few of those.
|
These guys were in the field in front of the carpark. Two of them got excited and were butting heads...crazy. |
|
Just after they "jousted." See them giving each other the "look." |
|
Lake and mountains |
|
More lake and mountains |
|
Sun threatening to go down. |
|
Closeup of a bird that was entertaining us in the parking lot. |
|
Bird. I have wondered if raven. |
And then we went back to Sligo for a quick trip through the Abbey ruins and for dinner.
The Abbey
|
Just inside. |
|
One of the abbey cats. |
|
The cloisters |
|
Celtic symbol on a column of the cloisters. |
|
Ram's head on a column in the cloisters. |
We did take another trip before heading back to Dublin. That hike deserves a post of its own, for there faeries be.
NOTES:
*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knocknarea or http://www.megalithicireland.com/Knocknarea.htm
**http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medb
*** http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrowmore and http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/north-west/carrowmoremegalithiccemetery/
**** http://www.discoverireland.ie/Activities-Adventure/glencar-waterfall/44568
***** http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/North-West/SligoAbbey/
Thank you.... so enjoying the trip. I keep telling John we will go back next year.
ReplyDeleteOh, you are welcome. Going through the photos has allowed me to relive the trip. I took too many photos and could be messing with this for a long time, but I have told myself to finish and figure out something else for my crazy "sign" photos and "gate" photos and "headstone" photos. It is my hoarding tendencies acting up. Oh, and remember that 2016 will be the 100th celebration of the Easter Uprising. It will be exciting that year and you may want to plan accordingly. Your thought of 2015 may be a good idea - skip the crowds.
DeleteGod bless Seamus Heaney! I was looking around on the net and found his poem, "Blackberry-Picking." Of course he would capture the experience perfectly. Here is a bit of his poem from OPENED GROUND: SELECTED POEMS 1966 -1996 by Seamus Heaney:
ReplyDeleteBlackberry-Picking
Late August, given heavy rain and sun
For a full week, the blackberries would ripen.
At first, just one, a glossy purple clot
Among others, red, green, hard as a knot.
You ate that first one and its flesh was sweet
Like thickened wine: summer's blood was in it
Leaving stains upon the tongue and lust for
Picking....
Still looking around. Here is Yeat's The Stolen Child which mentions, among other things, the Glencar Waterfall:
ReplyDeleteWhere dips the rocky highland
Of Sleuth Wood in the lake,
There lies a leafy island
Where flapping herons wake
The drowsy water rats;
There we've hid our faery vats,
Full of berries
And of reddest stolen cherries.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand.
For the world's more full of weeping than you can understand.
Where the wave of moonlight glosses
The dim gray sands with light,
Far off by furthest Rosses
We foot it all the night,
Weaving olden dances
Mingling hands and mingling glances
Till the moon has taken flight;
To and fro we leap
And chase the frothy bubbles,
While the world is full of troubles
And is anxious in its sleep.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world's more full of weeping than you can understand.
Where the wandering water gushes
From the hills above Glen-Car,
In pools among the rushes
That scarce could bathe a star,
We seek for slumbering trout
And whispering in their ears
Give them unquiet dreams;
Leaning softly out
From ferns that drop their tears
Over the young streams.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world's more full of weeping than you can understand.
Away with us he's going,
The solemn-eyed:
He'll hear no more the lowing
Of the calves on the warm hillside
Or the kettle on the hob
Sing peace into his breast,
Or see the brown mice bob
Round and round the oatmeal chest
For he comes, the human child
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand
From a world more full of weeping than he can understand
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteAnd Yeats also mentions Knocknarea in more than one poem. It is in the middle of "Red Hanrahan's Song about Ireland" reprinted from In the Seven Woods. W.B. Yeats. New York: Macmillan, 1903:
ReplyDeleteThe wind has bundled up the clouds high over Knocknarea,
And thrown the thunder on the stones for all that Maeve can say.
Angers that are like noisy clouds have set our hearts abeat;
But we have all bent low and low and kissed the quiet feet
Of Cathleen, the daughter of Houlihan.
Another place to read of the area:
Deletehttp://gostrandhill.com/explore/history/knocknarea/