Saturday, September 27, 2014

Galway and a trip to Inismor*

The Train:

Four wanderers took the train to Galway. One of the beautiful things about Ireland is the convenience of public transportation. I am fond of it, but DH does not enjoy the bus or train. I won this time and we traveled quickly (just over two hours to cross the country) and comfortably.

Breakfast in Heuston Station

Snacks available on the train

I can always use one more cup of tea
 
Loads of things to see on the trip.

We stopped at a few old stations as we traveled through the middle of the country.
More animals and a lake

We arrived in Galway, but the line to "punch our tickets" was long.

Galway city:

On Friday some of the streets were blocked off and there was almost a carnival atmosphere. We saw musicians and artists and such. We shopped and lunched and looked for stores where we had shopped in the past (DH was disappointed the surplus store had recently closed).

Galway is an amazing city with something for everyone. Unfortunately, our trip would be a quick one - our primary objective was to see the Aran Islands. 


Note the stilt-walker

Sculptor in sand

Local beer at the pub

Building with claddagh and a foreshadowing of our visit to Dunsink (You are stardust)


We checked with the tourist information to be sure we knew where to catch our shuttle to the Aran Island ferry in the morning.

Later we attended one of two plays being performed by the Druid Theatre Company. Both were by Tom Murphy** (Brigit and Bailegangaire). We missed the first play as dinner ran late. YC and I enjoyed Bailegangaire. The actresses were amazing. The boys ducked out at intermission. Oh well.


Inismor*:

We only scratched the tourist surface in our trip to the big island. I don't want to dismiss the fun we had, but I also don't want anyone to think this is all to see or do. In only a few hours to see and do, you barely get a taste of a place.


After boarding the ferry we got out on the top deck. We have all discovered that waves and swells are handled better on deck. Not too long after we left port an Irish Coast Guard helicopter few up and tailed us - hovering and following us - DH called it a "moving hover." It was quite the experience and for the five minutes or so I was not sure whether to waive and take photos or duck under my seat....and then they pealed off and away.









The trip was fairly calm and lovely as we approached the sheltered port.




The twins rented bikes and had adventures beyond those of the parents. We took a cart ride with Michael and his horse, Nelly. At least we had the opportunity of a long conversation with him to get a feel for the attitudes and lives of the island people.***

Good old Nelly and Michael in the background

Michael would turn and tell a story of the island

Seagulls riding the waves.

The island is crisscrossed with rock walls dividing small plots of land

The dirt in the fields is not very deep. It was built in many cases by the islanders hauling seaweed from the beach and composting it into land.

More walls and tiny fields.
 
Swans
It is a pretty desolate landscape.

DH and I join the other tourists climbing up to Dun Angus at the top of this cliff.

It is a pretty walk, but long and rocky.

Blackberries


Long walk...

Some spots are easy and others a little harder.

Ferns grew along the edge of the walk in spots.


The walls of Dun Angus

The cliffs from the walls of Dun Angus. MC took photos at the edge...I don't do that, but warned some tourists when they wondered, "Does anyone ever fall over the edge?" "Yes," I said. "Every years tourists get too close and are blown off the edge."

Sign warns to stay off the walls.

Gate to the fort.

Time to walk back down. These impressively shaped rocks drew my attention.

There was a crowd even for this time of year. The weather was unseasonable warm.

DH heads downhill

At one point we were directed to look off to the beach where there were sea lions.  Sure.  I saw nothing.
So I just took pictures and blew them up when I got home. And there they were.
Another couple sun themselves on the beech.
Animals graze on the sparse grass.
More cliffs viewed on the trip back to the port.

Another cart.

Road sign warns "SLOW" in two languages

At one point Michael asked if two of us would get out and walk so Nelly could get up the hill. And so two did.



We met up with the twins for lunch. We ate in a courtyard warmed by the sun. It really was a lovely day. I was disappointed there was no Guinness chocolate cake. I will have to make some when I get home.

Here as in other parts of Ireland we found large pots of mixed flowers.

Cat helps clean an abandoned plate.

Thatched restaurant. In the past most of the cottages had thatched roofs. Now there are few and most are roofed in slate or metal.

Twins head off to the shops



DH and I explored an old church (old churches appear all over the island) down a lane and behind a house when Michael sent us down the road a little way. "There's an old church beyond that gate," he said. DH walked down a grassy track. I was wandering in a field, grateful that there are no poisonous snakes in Ireland. And we found it.


Plaque says the church is named for St. Colman MacDuach,*** 7th century founder of Kilmachduach (?). The nave is from the 10th to 12th centuries and chancel is a later addition.

Cross inscribed standing stone outside the church

DH inside the door of the church

This is the first ruin I have seen with a cattle-guard.

It was impressive inside.

Carved crucifix over where the altar should be.

One of the windows

Window over the altar area.


View without DH. We found "offerings" left in the church. Clearly some pray there still.

Path from the church

DH heads out. This was an easier walk than slogging through the field.
 
Later we walked on the beach and watched a red sailed yacht set sail before we headed back to Galway city with the Connemara Mountains in the distance. We were left with an appreciation of how hard the life is on the islands. And we recognized the importance of the tourist trade to the life there today.

Parts of the beach were covered with seaweed. Part was clean packed sand.


It must be low tide.

These stairs lead to the water

More fishing boats and seagulls

This yacht started out as we lined up to get back on the ferry.

We have been surprised by the red sails and I started to sing "Red Sails in the Sunset"***** to the dismay of the children.


I know nothing of sailing, but could see they were raising the sails.


It was a beautiful boat.



It was a windy day and the ship took off quickly as we headed back to Galway.

Inismor is disappearing in the distance.





Later that evening we dined near the Spanish Arch - watching the sunset over Galway Bay.

Spanish Arch
 
MC is probably thinking about climbing this wall.

The clouds blocked most of the sunset this day.


NOTES:
*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inishmore
**http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Murphy_%28playwright%29
*** People who give you a ride: Irish drivers - whether cabs or carts or buses or whatever - are the most interesting people. All you have to do is start a conversation and you will laugh and cry and hear great stories (and maybe share a song or two).
**** http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colman_mac_Duagh
*****I am sure there is more to the story than this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Sails_in_the_Sunset_%28song%29  
And here is a version of the song - Red sails in the sunset with Patti Page - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RqM3uRvtmE

Date of trip: Septemeber 14, 2014

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