Sunday, September 2, 2018

Knocknarae - We Climb Maeve's Mountain - Hill of the Moon

So let us then try to climb the mountain, 
not by stepping on what is below us, 
but to pull us up at what is above us, 
for my part at the stars; amen. 
~ M. C. Escher


Knocknarae dominates the Cúil Irra Peninsula. Atop this limestone hill (excuse me, it's a mountain) is the largest cairn in Ireland. They say Queen Maeve stands forever beneath the stone-covered tomb. She stands facing her enemies in Ulster.*

We could see Knocknarae from the beach at Strandhill. Getting to the car park to start our climb was a little more difficult.
The Ballygawley Mountains can be seen from the heights of Knocknarae. Four of those peaks, Calliach a Vera, Sliabh Deane, Sliabh Dargan and Aghamore, also have ancient tombs at their summits.**

On a good day one can see from the bays of Sligo (to the north) and Ballysadare (on the south). The view of the green countryside from the top is breathtaking. On a wet day one can just see the slippery trail ahead.

It was a good day - until noon.

We watched group after group achieve the summit and return back down the trail as we trudged on. One large group of climbers told us they climbed the mountain every Sunday. Tourists and local families with small children seemed to dance past us.

Admittedly, we were pretty poky.****  There was much to see - wildflowers, blackberries, sheep, cattle, and the stunning landscape. We took our time and enjoyed the views, until the clouds moved in, the views disappeared, and the path became treacherous.

Someone told us later that there are four routes to the top. We took the oldest one.
We expected beautiful views as the day dawned bright and clear. The weather was forecast to close in just after noon. The forecast was correct.
I saw my first Harebells here in 2014. They did not disappoint this year as they appeared along the paths.
We continued to turn around as we climbed  - to see the landscape below. We could see the Ballygawley Mountains (part of the Ox Mountains) which include Calliach a Vera, Sliabh Deane, Sliabh Dargan and Aghamore Far - each of which has a cairn at its summit.****
The cows were letting us know the weather was heading our way.
We could not believe our luck - my last hike here was not so clear.
Devil's Bit - a lovely little flower, in spite of the name.
We were getting closer, but could not yet see the cairn.
This hike is considered "strenuous." It really isn't that bad, but the rough rocks do (and did) become slick with a very little moisture.*****
Looking back.

Looking toward Ballysadare Bay
Looking back down the path.
Looking toward Sligo Bay and Benbulbin****** keeping watch.
It was not too long before the clouds began to cover Benbulbin.

The view kept getting better as we climbed higher...
...and higher.



Maybe my favorite thing about September in Ireland - blackberries everywhere.
They make me think of fairy hats.
Harebells and ferns

Shamrock...
Red clover.
You try keeping up with this woman!
Heather
I don't remember heather blooming this late. Maybe it was the late rains at the end of the summer.
I was startled to see this - fossilized coral in the middle of the path...
...I learned about this fossil in the Burren National Park.*******  There are many advantages to a hike with a guide.
The cairn. The signs were reminders to stay off the cairn. One can see the results of  rock-slides caused by visitors.
I am not sure what needs to be done to keep people off of the cairn.
The top of the mountain contains many other ancient sites and more amazing views...
...but we could see we had already enjoyed the best of the day.



One path heads off. We did not stay to investigate as the weather was closing in.

VM at the base of the cairn - taking it all in.
Heading down into the mists. If this was a video you would see the clouds moving past.
It was still lovely as the clouds moved in.
We knew these guys were somewhere nearby.

Sheep had been here.
What happened to the view?
Brambles/blackberries
Ragwort
Lady's Mantle
The daisies had seen better days. Oxeye Daisy.
Black Knapweed (like a thistle, but not)

Maidenhair Spleenwort



Yarrow
Lady's Bedstraw
One last group of shamrocks saying goodbye.


The path was getting slick.
Yarrow
Meadowsweet (and a friend)
By the time we reached the car park, we were enjoying (?) a gentle mist.

NOTES:

*https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knocknarea
http://www.carrowkeel.com/sites/coolrea/knocknarea1.html

** https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballygawley,_County_Sligo
https://www.revolvy.com/page/Ballygawley%2C-County-Sligo

***Because we almost missed our connecting flight, our trekking poles were waiting for us in our "lost luggage" back at Shannon Airport (we hoped).

****Okay, I am pokey. VM is a beast! That woman moves fast.

*****On the way back down the hill my left foot slipped out from under me and I sat down hard. The cellphone in my left hand survived the impact as did all my old bones. I lost my dignity, but that only for a short moment. I frightened a group hiking just behind me, but managed to convince them all my joints worked and no one would be calling the emergency services that day. They took a message to VM who was hiking ahead that I was sitting down resting a moment and would be right down. Ha!

******https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benbulbin

******* http://www.burrengeopark.ie/discover-and-experience/geosites-discovery-points/burren-national-park/

Final Note: I was researching a few new (to me) musicians and discovered some lyrics to share...my youngest took me to Knocknarea the first time, so this is for her...

At the foot of Knocknarea I pick up a stone
To carry to the top with all my troubles
I’ll lay it on Maeve’s cairn high upon that mound
Stone upon hard stone I’ll lay it down
I have a man at home who wants more than I can give
And a child who needs at least that much and better
My heart is pulled tight, Maeve
In this home that I have made
At the foot of Knocknarea
I hear a music play as great as any love
I carry for my husband and my daughter
It calls me from their reach, I look back with no ease
Can they stay a while alone and leave me be?
“No,” says the voice that answers in my head
It’s the voice that has been droning on forever
It’s my mother’s music, Maeve
I sing with it always
As I climb up Knocknarea
And the wind, it does rage here on Knocknarea
It’s a rage that I’ve learned all too well
I will speak the truth from now
And show my young girl how
For her voice depends on mine
At the foot of Knocknarea I pick up a stone
To carry to the top with all my troubles
I’ll lay it on Maeve’s cairn high upon that mound
Stone upon hard stone I’ll lay it down
At the foot of Knocknarea I pick up a stone
~ Cathie Ryan 

http://www.cathieryan.com/lyrics/at-the-foot-of-knocknarea/


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