Where faeries be

In a cleft that's christened Alt
Under broken stone I halt
At the bottom of a pit
That broad noon has never lit,
And shout a secret to the stone.

From Man and The Echo by William Butler Yeats


The Alt

There's a spot in Sligo that is not marked with signage nor found on tourist maps. One has to be taken there by another who knows.

It is a place of magic. Yeats called it Alt. It is other.

YC had been there twice before, but she was driving this time and had to rely on her worthless companions to note the landmark indicating the spot. We drove the narrow lane slowly, but saw nothing. YC then asked at one of the tourist sites we visited. The woman looked at YC as if the question had not been understood. After a few more pleadingly gentle (gently pleading?) verbal exchanges, the woman stopped and stared at us. One could almost see her making up her mind - This young one seems to know the place and the old ones seem harmless. Should she disclose the location to these strangers? With a sigh she pulled out a map, circled two landmarks, and then marked the spot.

Once again we drove down the narrow lane and stopped.

And we walked through the entrance into a place where, if there be faeries, surely they be.

 

The sea is on one side. A mountain on the other side. I will tell you no other guideposts or landmarks.

There once was an iron gate.

But it has been removed.

We follow into the woods.

The trail is damp and narrow.

At times I am not sure if the trail is bordered by moss covered stone walls or fallen trees.

Ferns grow everywhere.

As we walk down the trail a high rock wall is to our left, running with springs and covered with ivy, fern and other plants.

The springs wet the path making passage difficult - even in these days when no rain has fallen.

Young trees grow to replace the fallen.

The light is diffused by the leaves overhead.

It seems a long way and I fall behind my companions.

Mossy stones.

There is enough light for some flowers to bloom.

Water sings along this rock wall.

Someone has started to clear a tree limb on the left.

Fuchsia bloom red before the path darkens.

A tree has fallen and new growth has sprouted like a curtain. I was so surprised by this and ...

...this fern that I did not see the turn. I walked further down the path, but then heard the voices of my companions.

And we were there.

We explored and marveled in the beauty of the place. But then it was time to go.

The mushrooms bid a farewell.

The ferns waived us on.

The fuchsia bloomed before us.

And blackberry vines shared their fruit.

We followed our earlier footsteps up and out.

And we were left to wonder if it was all a dream.

September 17, 2014

We did not forget Mr. Joyce - A trip to Sweny's and the neighborhood

So much of our time in Dublin was scattered - recovering from jet lag, shopping for gifts, doing the research, getting our hiking legs stretched, eating, etc. There are tales left to be told. Here is another effort, but I know I will find other notes tucked into my pockets and notebooks as I continue to unpack. These "Irish Posts" have been primarily a place to stash the photos with enough commentary to refer back to. <sigh>

Sweny's

The afternoon YC finished her research, she waited around for the rest of us to gather. She had already made her pilgrimage to Sweny's Chemist Shop,* but agreed to take us there for our lemon soap. For those of you** unfamiliar with James Joyce, his character Leopold Bloom in Ulysses goes to Sweny's Chemist Shop in Lincoln Place to buy lemon soap for his wife. Joyce lovers have kept Sweny's open through donations, volunteering and other activities (Celebration of Bloom's Day etc.).

It is a short walk from our hotel to the shop. We pass the deserted Finn's Hotel***. P. J. Murphy greeted us when we arrived. We chatted about our travels and planned travels. He offered to sing with me, but I begged off because of the cold. We purchased our soap and some books. And I took photos to save this moment as Sweny's existence is threatened by rising rents.

P. Finn's Hotel, Dublin

YC walks us across the street to Sweny's

The family gathered at the counter in Sweny's and talking with P. J. Murphy

The shop is a trip back in time.

I don't think you can buy aspirin, but you can pick up a book or two - and we did.

Hmm...a familiar name was noticed on these boxes on display.

I wonder what was contained within.

Joyce references in the window

Antique vials

After our visit we crossed the street to Kennedy's Pub**** for dinner. Kennedy's too has a storied history. It is where Oscar Wilde earned his first shilling as a clerk. Beckett and Joyce were both customers in their time. We did not think of that, but found it convenient and pleasant for our last evening meal in Dublin before heading to the west.

Notice the trim on the ceiling at Kennedy's pub

Architecture and stuff

There is entirely too much to see in Dublin. I fear I walk the streets like that stereotypical hick from the sticks, mouth open and head canted up to see the tall buildings. I took an extra walk in the neighborhood to take photos of symbols on the light posts and decoration on the columns and doorposts of buildings in the neighborhood. I had already visited a few churches and taken some other street photos.

The base of the streetlights in our neighborhood contained the  seal of the City of Dublin (as do the manhole covers). The seal contains three castles. The explanation is weird. You can look it up if you want. I didn't find it a good story.

Next you find shamrocks. We found them everywhere in the country - on souvenirs, on buildings, and growing along our path.

And more shamrocks...

The National Museum - Archeology seen from the National Library. Both are round building with beautiful tiled entries.

 

The entrance to the National Libraries manuscript archive with its locking gate.

The National Library gate

Door across the street from our hotel. Notice the cardboard that was left by a homeless person.

Vines on one side of the door.

Shamrocks on the other side of the door.

Yet another vine on the arched section.

Side view of this portico of this building

The columns of the building contained carved creatures. A dog chasing a pig (?).

Monkeys

An eagle

Front of the portico

I don't remember where this fence was, but note the end of the curled iron - from a distance it looks like a shamrock, but it is a fleur de lis

Georgian brownstones - there is a good story about the doors*****

I believe this is St. Audoen's church. The sign on the door said Mass was said in English only on Tuesday. Apparently this is the church for the large Polish population of Dublin.

Our Lady of Perpetual Help

St. Jude

Impressive facade

This Church of Ireland was next door.

Marsh's Library

On our last afternoon in Ireland we went to the Dunsink Observatory (subject of another post) and to Marsh's Library,******  a tiny and dusty library filled with pre-1700 volumes in Latin and Greek. No photography is allowed (although images can be found on the net). It is possible to research there, but researchers are closely monitored as they were "in the day" when they were locked in  cage-like offices.

As we left Marsh's I mentioned to a staffer that we had primarily gone to museums, libraries, observatories and such. And he joined me in a chuckle as I mentioned we were "nerds on vacation."

NOTES:

*http://www.irishtimes.com/culture/leopold-bloom-s-pharmacy-under-threat-after-rates-hike-1.1831372 and
http://www.toursbylocals.com/ReadJamesJoyce and don't miss
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C532-ZGZGDw  and
http://www.writing.ie/readers/a-dublin-gem-swenys-bookshop/

**I only know these things from YC. I never read Ulysses.

*** I have since discovered that P. Finn's Hotel, across the street from Sweny's was where Nora Barnacle (the muse and wife of James Joyce) worked as a chambermaid.

****http://www.kennedys.ie/2_history/index.html

***** It is said that an English king died and it was suggested to Irish homeowners to paint the doors of their houses black in mourning. The homeowners showed their true feelings by painting their doors a variety of bright colors. At least this is what one of our guides told us this trip. More on these doors - http://www.irishcultureandcustoms.com/ALandmks/DoorsofDublin.html

******http://www.marshlibrary.ie/